48 hours in Sibiu

Sibiu is the place I use as a compass when the world feels too loud. Tucked in the heart of Transylvania, it is a former Saxon stronghold turned cultured Romanian city, where pastel façades line cobbled squares and the famous “eyes” in the rooftops seem to follow you as you wander past. Once the capital of the Principality of Transylvania and later part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it has long been a crossroads where German precision meets Romanian warmth and Central and Eastern European heritage.

Growing up here means growing up with layers. In Sibiu, history is not sealed behind museum glass: it breathes through medieval towers and Art Nouveau balconies, through German street names carved into stone lintels and neighbours exchanging quiet morning greetings. Traditions run deep: so deep that even King Charles has shown interest in supporting the preservation of rural craftsmanship and landscape in the region. Culture is lived through ritual and taste: hearty stews, smoky cured meats and plum brandy poured from an unlabelled bottle with a knowing smile.

Yet Sibiu is not defined by nostalgia alone. Named European Capital of Culture in 2007, the city awakened with creative energy: theatre festivals, contemporary galleries, indie coffee roasters and minimalist wine bars now sit comfortably among Gothic churches and baroque halls. Heritage and reinvention support each other rather than compete.

What makes Sibiu unforgettable is the nearness of nature. From the Upper Town, the Carpathians appear close enough to touch, snow lingering on their peaks well into spring. Within minutes, urban rhythm dissolves into alpine silence: ski slopes in Păltiniș, the glassy stillness of Bâlea Lake or pine-scented trails where the only sound is your heartbeat. Storybook city, raw wilderness, one effortless transition.

For me, it is still home first and destination second: a place where you greet the same barista every morning, then wander under Gothic arches or into quiet forests by afternoon. Come for the skyline that feels painted; stay because it becomes, very quickly, somewhere you might belong. But if you only have 48 hours here, this is what I would do.

Where To Stay

For a stay rooted in the city’s creative pulse, Art Hotel is a boutique option just steps from the historic centre, with light-filled rooms and curated local artwork. Evenings end with a glass of wine overlooking red-tiled rooftops. For something more intimate, Sibiu’s restored heritage apartments offer exposed beams, hand-woven textiles and courtyard views where time slows. A standout example is a beautifully designed Airbnb (example property) set within a traditional Saxon townhouse.

Where To Eat

Sibiu is fast becoming one of Romania’s most exciting culinary destinations. Hochmeister brings thoughtful farm-to-table cooking to seasonal Transylvanian flavours, with a menu shaped by the harvest. For traditional comfort, Crama Sibiul Vechi feels like stepping into folklore: vaulted brick ceilings, folk music and hearty dishes rooted in pastoral life. Order cabbage rolls or slow-cooked pork and finish with plum brandy. On slow mornings, Charlies is the spot for fresh brunch and great coffee, a favourite among locals and creatives.

Where To Explore

Begin in Piața Mare, the main square once marking the fortified edge of the medieval city. Surrounded by baroque façades and the watchful rooftop “eyes,” it becomes one of Europe’s most magical Christmas markets in winter. Wander the cobbled maze of the Upper and Lower Towns, discovering stairways, bridges and hidden passages.

Climb the Evangelical Church tower for panoramic views: terracotta roofs spilling towards the horizon with the Carpathians rising beyond them. Then escape to the ASTRA Village Museum, an open-air collection of wooden houses and rural workshops set around a lake, celebrating Romania’s pastoral heritage. Other unmissable stops include: the Bridge of Lies, Brukenthal National Museum, the Council Tower at golden hour and a stroll along Strada Cetății beneath the fortress walls.

Where To Work Out

Sibiu’s wellness scene blends boutique and outdoor adventure. One Wellness Pilates offers personalised classes in a beautifully restored townhouse, all calm light and polished wood. But the true workout lies beyond the city: hike to Negoiu Peak, Romania’s second-highest summit, on a mid-level trail through pine forests and rocky ridges. In winter, ski the quiet slopes of Păltiniș, Romania’s oldest mountain resort, for crisp alpine air and open runs.