48 hours in Lisbon
How to eat, explore and exercise your way around the Portuguese capital.
Few cities have had better PR in recent years than Lisbon, and if you haven’t yet visited, chances are almost everyone you know has. When I set off for the Portuguese capital for a three-month stint in the sun, I came well-armed with recommendations across food, fitness and fun. Along the way I naturally added my own: hidden gems, quaint cafés and hotspots that live up to the hype. I never found a city that felt so alive yet calm.
Now, if you know little about Lisbon, there are a few key points to note before you book. Lisbon is hilly — and I don’t say that lightly. Yes, my hometown of London may be relatively flat, but Lisbon will have your calves on fire before you even make it to breakfast. To make it even harder, the floor tiles are slippery, especially when wet, so unless you plan on taking a taxi (a fine option, though less ideal for exploring), leave the heels at home.
Many people speak English, but in smaller, local spots, it pays to learn a bit of Portuguese — Olá, bom dia and obrigado will go a long way. And likewise, carry some euros in your pocket; not everywhere accepts cards.
But if you’re after a city that offers world-class cuisine — from local Portuguese fare to flavours from every corner of the globe — winding streets perfect for strolling, friendly faces, and outstanding beauty (the tile-fronted buildings are really something special) — plus the beach a short drive away — you’d be hard-pressed to find a better place than Lisbon. Especially when it comes to wellness: there doesn’t seem to be a district without a fitness studio, a local produce store or a functional coffee bar.
Where To Stay
There’s no shortage of incredible hotels in Lisbon, but for a quick snapshot, here are a few I’m desperate to return to: For boutique hotel feel: Hotel Das Amoreiras, part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. For history-lovers: Pestana Palace Lisboa, a 19th-century palace turned lavish hotel. For city-centre convenience: The Ivens, with a standout restaurant, The Rocco. And for sun-seekers: Brown’s Avenue Hotel, adults-only, with a rooftop pool.
Where To Eat
Whatever food you’re after, you’ll find it in Lisbon, but here are a handful of my favourites. For a modern fish-centric approach: Rosamar or the Peruvian-inspired A Cevicheria. Both are on Rua Dom Pedro V, a street known for excellent bars, restaurants and shops. For something more authentic: O Velho Eurico or Magnolia Bistrô & Winebar — one of my top picks for brunch or dinner, especially when sat outside overlooking Jardim Fialho de Almeida. Around this small square you’ll also find cafés, an ice-cream parlour and the juice/functional-mushroom bar Longevity Alchemists. And for coffee, breakfast and pastries: consider COMOBÂ, Marquise da Mobler, and for matcha lovers — Albá.
Where To Explore
As with most cities, Lisbon is best explored on foot. After ticking off the big sites — Praça do Comércio, the docks at Caldeirinha, Castelo de São Jorge, and Alfama (the city’s oldest district) — you may want somewhere a little less crowded. My favourite? The Botanical Garden — bring a book, sit on a bench and enjoy the calm. Or head to Jardim do Rio for sea views and try to grab a table at Ponto Final.
Lisbon is also within short driving distance of beautiful beaches like Praia da Cabana, in Costa da Caparica, where the now-lost Casa Rêia once sat — a beach club with sauna and cold plunge on the sand and a local menu that could rival any top restaurant. It sadly recently burnt down, but I’m hopeful of its return. In the meantime, there are many other excellent beach spots to visit.
Where To Workout
While Lisbon may be known for its history and food, its fitness scene is also exceptional. Some of my favourites include: The Kynd Space, Connection Studio, and The Reformer Lab. Also worth checking out: Prescription Pilates, Leela Lisboa and MVMT Studio. All of these are available on ClassPass, meaning you can easily book whatever you fancy. Or, if you’re looking for a workout that’s also a great laugh (especially if in a group), consider a surf lesson — I’d strongly recommend surf school DuckDive.
Where To Shop
On Avenida da Liberdade, you’ll find the famous luxury labels: Miu Miu, Loewe, Louis Vuitton and more, but the true gems lie in the smaller neighbourhoods. Venture to shoe shop Flabelus, bookstore Livraria da Travessa, and gallery EmbaiXada on Rua Dom Pedro V. Go local too: clothes brand Sienna on Rua Garrett, and one of the city’s oldest stores, candle-makers Caza das Vellas Loreto on Rua do Loreto. And remember — Portugal is also famed for ceramics: you’ll find world-renowned brand Bordallo Pinheiro’s store on Avenida Guerra Junqueiro.
