
What ‘Organic’ Really Means In Beauty, And Why It Matters
The word “natural” is everywhere, but what does it really guarantee? Cosmetic scientist Sabrina Ranieri breaks down the difference between natural and truly organic, and why purity, process and biomimicry matter for the skin.
When I approach a cosmetic ingredient, I always perceive it as a small microcosm: an interweaving of molecules, plant tissues, light, and subtle energy that determines its vitality and behaviour. Yet, observing the current beauty landscape, I notice how often the term natural is bent to the logic of marketing, creating grey areas even among professionals. The word feels reassuring, but its broad semantic space risks masking substantial differences in quality and bioavailability.
A natural ingredient may come from a plant or mineral matrix, but this origin alone does not guarantee safety, purity, or efficacy. Non-organic raw materials may derive from intensive cultivation, be grown with conventional pesticides, or undergo extraction processes that compromise their molecular structure. It’s a frequent dichotomy: on the one hand, there are raw materials that, while natural, have their active potential reduced; on the other hand, equally natural ingredients express an extraordinary affinity with the skin.
Olive oil is a prime example: natural, rich in oleic acid (omega-9), fat-soluble vitamins and phytosterols, supporting the skin barrier with remarkable physiological coherence. Lemon juice, also natural, represents the opposite: acidic, photosensitising and irritating when used pure. This polarity demonstrates how the concept of "natural" must be interpreted with awareness, while recognising the sensorial and functional value of authentic plant matter.
When I speak of organic, I am speaking of a systemic and scientific commitment, not a reassuring label. A truly organic supply chain implies traceability, living soils, crops free of synthetic pesticides, the absence of GMOs, and extraction processes that protect the integrity of molecules. It's an approach I clearly recognise in the results on the skin: organic oils maintain the integrity of polyunsaturated fatty acids, tocopherols, phytosterols, and endogenous antioxidants, establishing an immediate biochemical dialogue with the skin lipidome and significantly reducing the risk of reactivity.
Certifications provide useful guidance. In Europe and the United Kingdom, the reference is the COSMOS Organic standard, while in the United States, the USDA Organic certification requires at least 95% organic ingredients. At the same time, I am aware of the financial burden these certifications entail, which is why some laboratories, despite operating with impeccable methods, may choose not to cover the costs. This is why my professional assessment always begins with supply chain transparency, a careful reading of the INCI, extraction methods, and formulation rigour.
When skincare is formulated organically, we inevitably enter the realm of lipids. The skin barrier is a refined structure composed of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids; everything that supports it must speak the language of biochemistry. Cold-extracted organic oils and butters preserve key active molecules and establish an immediate relationship with the skin: strengthening the lipid matrix, stabilising hydration, supporting microcirculation and modulating oxidative stress to maintain balance.
The lipid environment is also an ideal matrix for transporting fat-soluble molecules — vitamins, carotenoids, antioxidants — protecting their structure, preserving their integrity, and improving their bioavailability to the skin. It is within this physiological architecture that organic active ingredients express their maximum potential, especially when working in synergy with a biomimetic composition.
It’s with this understanding that InLight Beauty created one of the most significant technologies I've encountered in contemporary organic cosmetics: the Bio-Lipophilic Matrix. It's a synergy of organic plant oils, butters, and beeswax formulated to mirror the epidermal lipid structure. A true biomimetic architecture that allows for the gradual and intelligent release of active ingredients, accompanying the skin in a dynamic of physiological resonance.
In-house studies conducted by InLight using hyperspectral imaging provide a fascinating insight into biophysical dynamics: increased biophoton emission suggesting greater tissue energetic coherence, and increased thermal activity related to more vital microcirculation — supporting more orderly lipid and molecular organisation within the skin. While not a replacement for canonical metrics such as TEWL (transepidermal water loss), these signals contribute to a coherent scientific narrative demonstrating how a pure, biological lipid environment can tangibly support the skin's functional rhythm.
Once the effects of pure lipids, truly active botanical extracts and molecules preserved in their integrity have been experienced, the skin naturally tends to remain in that state of balance. The organic approach isn't a trend, but a return to a profound biological coherence. When the skin encounters pure lipids, truly effective active molecules, and extracts obtained through biodynamic methods and respectful processes, it responds clearly: it rebalances, glows, and rediscovers its natural rhythm. Skincare ceases to be a repetitive gesture and becomes a practice of conscious care, a daily dialogue with the skin's most authentic physiology.

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